AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND

As New Zealand writer Kevin Ireland once observed, Auckland has a weight problem: "It is one of the biggest cities in the world. Its swollen bulk hangs out over the constricting belt of its isthmus and bulges further than the eye can see. Its head cannot locate its toes."

Over a quarter of the nation's inhabitants live in the Auckland region. Since the Maori alighted from their waka (canoes) to occupy the densely forested land, a steady stream of migrants have followed; Europeans, Asians and Polynesians have all made the journey to create the largest Polynesian enclave in the world. More than 50 volcanoes have erupted in Auckland, permanently scarring its landscape. The last, 600 years ago, gave birth to Rangitoto Island. Today, the buzz, aggression and vitality of the city echoes this turbulent past.

Central Business District

The main artery, Queen Street, studded with retail and commercial buildings, flows from Newton to Downtown, with the shadow of the Sky Tower reflected in every gleaming, glass tower. Take a cultural stopover ... more