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Bordeaux, France

Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Bordeaux, France

Bordeaux may be made up of “arrondissements” like Paris, but people tend to talk about the city in terms of quarters (quartiers). Each quarter has a name and encompasses a relatively precise area, often flanked by two main roads or streets. Let's start with the oldest one, which is often considered the most beautiful of Bordeaux's quarters.

The Saint Pierre quarter Right in the heart of Bordeaux, the Saint Pierre quarter is the historic center of the town. It is made up of beautiful little streets, some of which are still paved. Saint Pierre is Bordeaux's culinary capital, with a large amount of restaurants to suit every taste and pocket—something for gourmets and gourmands. The Place du Parlement is home to some wonderful architecture and a decorative fountain. Also in the area is the St-Pierre Church, built in the 15th and 16th Centuries on the site of the former Gallo-roman port.

The Chartrons quarter The Chartrons quarter, set on the banks of the Garonne, used to be very busy and wealthy thanks to the wine trade. Here, merchants and businessmen rubbed shoulders with sailors and laborers. Its name comes from the Chartreux convent, built in the 17th Century, and it used to be the center both of the town and of Anglo-Saxon and protestant life. With the decline of river-trade, the quarter emptied, becoming a calm residential area with antique shops. A section of the quarter is today known as the "village des antiquaries" or antique-shop village. In this area visitors can take in the Chartrons Museum, and nearer the banks of the Garonne, the Croiseur Colbert. Not far from here is the magnificent Center of Contemporary Art (CAPC).

The Saint Eloi quarter This focal point of the Saint Eloi quarter is, of course, the Grosse Cloche, just next to the Saint Eloi church. Bordeaux's main shopping street (1 mile long!) the rue sainte Catherine is nearby. The Grosse Cloche links the Saint Michel, Victoire and Saint Pierre quarters—it is a sort of crossroads for the oldest, pre-medieval quarters and the areas that were modernized from the 17th Century onwards.

The Saint Michel quarter Separated from the St. Pierre quarter by the cours Victor Hugo, the Saint Michel quarter is by far the liveliest and most colorful area in town. Spaniards, Portuguese, North Africans and French live happily side-by-side, and visitors can enjoy food and drink from a variety of cultures, often at very reasonable prices. Built around the Saint Michel basilica, a Gothic church erected at the end of the 15th Century, and the Flèche St-Michel, at 114 meters the highest monument in Bordeaux, this popular quarter has a young vibe. Every Monday morning there is a clothes market on the square and Saturday mornings see two other large markets: the Marché des Capucins on rue Elie Gintrac and the one around the flèche Saint Michel. Sunday morning is reserved for bric-a-brac and antiques and is guaranteed to be buzzing.

The Sainte Croix quarter Formerly a suburb, the Sainte Croix quarter only became part of the city proper in the 14th Century. The Romanesque church of Sainte Croix, built between the end of the 11th and 12th Centuries, stands on the place Renaudel. This institution remained Benedictine until the Revolution and is now a parish church. Today the heart of the quarter borders the older, pre-13th Century areas and the zones that were modernized during the 19th and 20th Centuries.

The Station quarter On arrival in Bordeaux's train station, visitors can immediately admire the building itself—the Gare St-Jean—an enormous hall built in the arc of a circle. This quarter provides 24-hour service where food, drink and cigarettes are always available. It is a popular area, with numerous sex-shops, bars, restaurants and hotels (from basic to luxurious). Travelers, weary from their train journey can try the Hôtel Ibis.

The Victoire quarter Center of student night-life, the Place de la Victoire is one of Bordeaux's larger squares. Just like a compass, this focal point looks to the North, South, East and West and as such is a good place to orient yourself. The rue Ste-Catherine starts with the passage under the Aquitaine Bridge.

The Grands Hommes quarter This chic, elegant quarter is home to the old Dominican Notre Dame church, built in 1684. Not far from here are the former place Dauphine (1747), the Place Gambetta, the Allées de Tourny, a walkway which was done up in 1745 by Tourny, and the cours de l'Intendance, a triumphal way used by many a King and chief of State. The Grand Théâtre stands on the place de la Comédie.

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