We went in Nov. 2007. We were going to drive ourselves, but quickly bagged that idea and hooked up with a tour company at the airport and arranged a hotel, driver/guide. Toured Cairo and Alexandria and then flew to Aswan and took a Nile River cruise with a private guide and then back to Cairo from Luxor. I wore a native outfit with my head covered and got no hassle. Bought a beautiful handmade rug and a small antique item from a tomb along with other less valuable items. Very cheap trip considering all that was involved. Yes Cairo was dirty, but so were alot of cities we have visited.