In all of my travels, Cairo is the dirtest, depressing city I every had the pleasure to experience. Most of the buildings had no roofs (its some tax thing )and squalor is everywhere. Many of the streets are unpaved and the city is full of dust, especially if its windy. On a positive note the Pyramids of Giza and the Eygptian museum were excellent (King Tut exhibit the highlight) especially since we had an experienced Eygptologist as a guide. (an absolute must). We didn't fell unsafe as we were accompanied by a Uzzi toting security guard . After seing these historic venues, i would suggest getting out of Cairo after two days and spending time in Luxor (Karnack Temple, Valley of the Kings) and Aswan (Nile River Cruise is a must). Skip the western desert trip as everything ( food and lodging) is totally third world. Good buys on carpets, papyrus, essence, and cotton goods at reputable stores. Avoid the junk in the markets, especially silver and gold items. There fake and a rip off.