The Aran Islands seem to have kept more of Old Ireland than anywhere else I visited. Galway was interesting, Dublin impossible. Connemora region outstanding landscapes. But nothing compares to the Aran Islands. 11th Century stone forts, incredible seaside cliffs, fishing and lobster ports. Friendly people. I went in October -- far less "touristy." Gaeltacht -- Irish speakers. A pleasure just to hear the language. Fine pubs and music. Can't say enough good. Only bad -- driving on the l...
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