I married a Jerusalemite and go every other year. Whatever you imagine it to be nothing prepares you. Hire a guide for the old city (archeological seminars and zion walking tours are good ones) - there's just too much history t be missed by wandering around on your own. Mahane Yehuda market (the city's main open air food market) is colorful and exciting. Try the Halvah from the King of Halvah - fresh, moist and delicious. The middle eastern grill restaurants on Agrippas Street while not fancy offer delicious grilled meats, fresh israeli salads and baked on premises flat breads - I happen to like Simas. Explore on foot the neighborhoods of Nahlaot, Mea Shearim, Sha'are Hesed, Yemin Moshe,Talbieh and the German and Greek colonies - Emek Refaim Street is a center for non tourist Jerusalem. One can easily spend a week in Jerusalem and not be bored (or hungry). Masada/En Gedi/Dead Sea, Abu Gosh (beautiful town just west of the city - best place to try the Arab kitchen - lamb!!...I could go on but will let you discover on your own.