Nevis, St Kitts & Nevis

It's hard to believe our sleepy little island, which resembles the shape of a floating sombrero, was once the center of a booming sugar cane industry. Nevis, so named by Christopher Columbus, saw cloud-surrounded Nevis Peak and called the island "las nieves" or snow.

Nevis grows on people. It's a destination that many love because of its laid-back, old-fashioned lifestyle. Being here is akin to the way things were a century ago: power supplies are unpredictable, roads are riddled with potholes, and it's not unusual for the island to run out of supplies if the seas are high and cargo boats can't dock. Yet, it's this charm that attracts many who return year after year. It's a place where everyone knows everyone, and it's hard to get away with anything without becoming the talk of the town.

Despite old-time charm, Nevis does have a posh Four Seasons Resort and several upscale plantation inns that provide modern-day services in spite of it all.

Today, Nevis relies primarily on tourism to drive its economic engine. Of the nearly 10,000 residents, more than 700 work at the Four Seasons, and many more staff the other hotels and restaurants. In addition to tourism, Nevis' other big industry is offshore financial institutions, and dozens of them have opened in recent years.

The birthplace of American patriot Alexander Hamilton, Nevis has a colorful history as the one time stomping ground of British Naval Admiral Horatio Nelson. Nevis flourished in the 18th and early 19th centuries when sugar dominated the economy of the Caribbean, and particularly Nevis. Once English, the island is now an independent Federation with its sister island of St. Kitts. However, many on Nevis have believed that Nevis should strike out on its own. In 1999, a referendum to succeed from the Federation was narrowly defeated in a popular vote. The English traditions have continued, and the schools, government, and other institutions are based on the British systems.

Because of its rich history, Nevis is physically beautiful with the ruins of old plantations with chimneys and windmills dotting the landscape. The capital of Charlestown is filled with charming West Indian buildings, constructed of volcanic stone and decorated with wooden gingerbread.

We have one primary road, 21.5 miles long and circular, it runs around the island, so it's difficult to get lost here, unless you're hiking in the mountains without a guide.

Charlestown

This wonderful 18th century city is considered the main harbor; it looks across at its sister island, St. Kitts. Laid out along the main road that encircles the island, Charlestown is a collection of mostly volcanic stone buildings, often with wooden second floors. Today, many of them are undergoing restoration.

Two main squares form the heart of the town, Memorial Square and Walwyn Square. At Memorial Square is the Courthouse, where the imposing English-style jurisprudence is practiced, and a well-known clock tower sits on the top.

The Treasury Building, the town's jewel, is located near the center, with plans in place for its restoration. At one end of town is the delightful St. Paul's Anglican Church, with its walled-in churchyard. Along the harbor is the former Cotton Ginnery, which was recently rehabilitated to house several small shops, an ice cream parlor, and restaurant. Next to this is our colorful public market, where vendors sell produce daily.

Off the main road is the Jewish Cemetery, which has been the subject of many studies into the one-time population of Jews who came to the island from Brazil to run the sugar industry.

There are two museums in town: the Museum of Nevis History situated along the waterfront in the home where Hamilton was born, and the Nelson Museum, a one-time private collection of memorabilia of Lord Nelson was given to the museum.

Near the Nelson Museum is the former Bath Hotel, now in a sorry state, but once a fabulous resort hotel that attracted the likes of Samuel Coleridge. Near the hotel are hotel springs and these thermal bath attracted visitors from Europe and throughout the world because of their medicinal qualities. Today the Bath Hotel is empty, overrun by goats and sheep, and awaiting a wealthy investor able to return it to its former greatness.

Fig Tree & Montpelier

These two rural areas are steeped in history. At the charming, tiny Fig Tree Church is the wedding registry of Lord Nelson and the widow Fanny Nisbet, who were actually married at Montpelier House on March 11, 1787. Montpelier House, located right near the Montpelier Plantation Inn, was built on the site of the original Great House. James Gaskill, an Englishman, who created a world-class inn on the site upon the ruins, constructed the inn. There's still a wonderful windmill from 1794 on the grounds.

In the Montpelier area is the new Botanical Garden of Nevis, built several years ago by a Pennsylvania businessman who was determined to create the most outstanding botanical garden in the Caribbean. Some say he is succeeding.

Gingerland

This lovely area of the island is known for its cool, green environment. Located at the base of Nevis peak near the rain forest, Gingerland has retained its original old-time flavor. There are still many old wooden chattel houses here, rum shops, and sheep and goats running free on the terrain.

In the center of the village is the Gingerland Methodist Church, as well as a small commercial area with several small stores.

Just before you reach the center of Gingerland is the Old Manor Hotel, built on an old sugar estate, with wonderfully intact ruins of the sugar factory. Lovely guest rooms have been built atop the stone ruins, offering gracious accommodation on the cool mountain slopes.

Gingerland is also the home of the Golden Rock Plantation Inn, a former sugar plantation, where many of the island's green vervet monkeys live. Visitors usually make a stop at the inn to look for monkeys (early morning and later afternoon are best) and to walk the inn's nature trail. It's also a jumping off point for hikes up the mountain.

New River & Coconut Walk

On the windward side of the island are flatlands that were once used for sugar plantations. Now the ruins consist of old factories, steam engines, and a working lime kiln can be visited to get an idea of what plantation life was like. Closest to the main road is New River, the ruins of which are preserved for visitors to see. Following the goat trail down towards the water (you can actually follow the goats themselves), you'll reach Coconut Walk.

Newcastle

The small village of Newcastle at one time had an old post office and other old buildings. But when it came time to expand the Nevis airport to allow larger planes to land, Newcastle had to go. The town was raised in the late 1990s and the runway became 200 feet longer to allow the American Eagle hopper planes to land. The Eagle still has not landed, but Nevis is ready and larger private jets have begun to arrive. The face of Newcastle is continually changing with a new airport terminal now underway with more parking.

Jones Estate

This "modern" developed area is where the bulk of the expatriate community lives. Many new homes have been built here in the last ten years and several restaurants have sprung up. Jones Estate abuts the sea, so there is easy beach access here, and really the only waterfront homes are located in this area.

Nearby is the Oualie Beach Hotel, a center for water sports, the Inn at Cades Bay, a new beachfront hotel, and Cliffdwellers, a luxury villa community which has also weekly hotel-type rentals. Restaurants in and near Jones Estate include Miss June's Cuisine, located in a private home, Tequila Sheila's, and Under the Sea, a restaurant/aquarium.