Kyo Aji, Tokyo

Kyo Aji's reputation precedes it - it is exceedingly popular with gourmet locals, who flock to it for its imaginative, highly original Japanese cuisine - and as a result, you might need to make a reservation two or three months in advance. The 'Kyo' in the title refers to Kyoto, whose cuisine the restaurant is dedicated to. Chef Nishi, who is somewhat famous himself, serves up matsutake mushrooms, hamo (conger eel) and other versions of popular delicacies, all adhering to Japanese gourmet sensibilities - and then some. It's well worth a visit but be sure to reserve many weeks in advance.

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