Goh Thow Chick Cafe, Penang

One of the oldest chicken and rice establishments on the island and so well patronized that serving food, both in-house or for takeaway, has been honed into a silky smooth logistical operation. Twenty-five round tables seating five to seven are arranged in neat rows of four along the length of the airy and spick-and-span shop house. Steamed or fried chicken hangs from hooks in two glass and aluminum cabinets where the cooked birds are cleaved into serving portions with amazing dexterity and speed. Innards and feet make tasty companions to a dish—as ubiquitous among Malaysians as perhaps pasta to the Italians. The usual beverages and soft drinks are served.

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