It's likely you'll have heard of Cha Ca La Vong before setting foot in Hanoi. Even the street is named after the only dish served at this humble, century-old restaurant: grilled boneless fish marinated in dill and saffron, served in individual charcoal burners alongside noodles, peanuts, fish sauce, and other essential condiments. The service is often curt and rushed, the tourist hoards crowd in the weakly air-conditioned room, and the grease permeates your clothing and skin. However, when you close your eyes and take your first bite, the fish melting in your mouth will dissolve all other thoughts from your mind.
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