Chuchai, Montreal

Serving fine vegetarian Thai food for those who like their vegetarian food to look and taste like meat, Chuchai—and its cheaper sibling next door, chuch—are the culinary domain of award-winning chef Lily Sirikittikul. It’s officially a fine-dining restaurant, but spotty service take it down to the level of a perfectly adequate restaurant. But we come for the perfectly executed food. Among all the faux creature concoctions, crispy mock duck with sweet soy glaze is a stand-out. Our favorite, though, is the tofu with crispy fried spinach on top. It doesn’t sound like much and really shouldn’t be so good, but it’s always the first thing we order.

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