Express (L'), Montreal

When you’re trotting up and down St-Denis unable to find this classic French bistro, don't be surprised. Always buzzing, L’Express is so well known to locals that there is no need for a sign. From the black-and-white checkered floor to the soupe de poisson and croque-monsieur sandwiches, L’Express doesn’t so much scream Paris, as effortlessly murmur it. Reserve ahead if you can, but if you’re dining solo there’s usually room to squeeze in at the shiny mirrored bar without calling ahead. It’s not a spot to come to if you’re in a hurry—the servers are in no rush. So order up confit de canard or steak-frites with a glass of something elegant and French and savor each mouthful.

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