Le Ribouldingue, Paris

Not too far from Saint Julien le Pauvre is Ribouldingue, an establishment that's little more than a hole in the wall. For meat lovers who take meat loving to the next level, it's a sanctuary for kindred spirits. Heads, tongues and tails, jowls, udders and eyeballs, Ribouldingue is the place where the odds and ends (literally) of meat become daily specials. The dining room is a narrow corridor and accommodates 20 tables, some with oxtail and ravioli and others with squid, olives and tomatoes. The restaurant brings respect and acceptability to a form of cuisine spoken of largely in hushed voices. Above all, you know the Ribouldingue is primarily here to serve diners, not tourists.

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