Le Rubis, Paris

This bistro is rather like fine wine - it gets better with time. The rustic interior has a special timeless quality about it, and it is this respect for tradition that is at the heart of its success. Full to bursting every lunchtime, you will begin to understand its popularity even better once you have been on the receiving end of the owner's warm and spirited welcome. As for the gastronomical delights on offer, there is wine, wine and, of course, more wine, costing around EUR2-4 per glass, with the bistro specializing in the resplendent reds of Bordeaux and Brouilly. However, this by no means outdoes the selection of charcuterie at the deli counter. In summertime, the hungry crowds are so overwhelming that customers overflow onto the streets to feast at tables fashioned from the old wine casks.

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