Santa Maria della Concezione, Rome

This Baroque church gets modest attention because of the Guido Reni painting of St. Michael as well as the Pietro da Cortona canvas “St. Paul’s Sight Being Restored.” But the real reason to visit Santa Maria della Concezione is for what lies underneath: the bones of 4,000 monks, decoratively displayed in several chapels. Despite its morbid sound, this is considered one of the best things to do in Rome. Bones grace the walls and ceiling, all bedecked in an organized, aesthetically pleasing fashion. Ribs have been combined to become chandeliers. Femur bones form a cross. Finger bones form a heart. There are complete skeletons, too, some of whom are still wearing their monks habits. And when you leave, don’t forget to heed the words scrawled on the wall near the door: “What you are, we used to be. What we are, you will be.”

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