“Hidden gem” is a horrible cliché, but this rooftop restaurant really is a gem, and it sure is hidden. Look for the address carefully because there’s nothing to distinguish the front door from the entrance to any other apartment building. Ring the buzzer for access and enter a dreary front hall before going up an antiquated elevator. At this point you might feel like turning back, but forge ahead. The elevator opens and suddenly it all gets better. A sun-soaked dining room and terrace offer sweeping views of tiled rooftops, 19th-century spires and towers, and the labyrinthine streets and alleyways of Lavapiés and Tirso de Molina. The terrace is the best place to be, but you should make a reservation. There’s not much décor—none being needed with a view like this—but the atmosphere is friendly, with a mostly over-30s local crowd. People often rave about the tapas, but they might be confusing it with the view; while the kitchen does a good job, they do not do a great one. Still, it’s value for money, with a memorable location thrown in for free.