Old Friends, London

London's oldest Cantonese restaurant is one of the few survivors in what was London's original Chinatown, developed after Chinese sailors first settled around the docks. Regulars are most likely old friends with its owners; after more than fifty years, the restaurant still belongs to the same family. This is your classic upscale Chinese - as in lacquer and gold and high-backed chairs, not minimalist glass and wood. You should try the Docklands specialty Jar Jow for history's sake, although the Roast Pork in Chili Sauce is a bit cloying and a reminder that Chinese food has made great leaps since the first influx of immigrants.

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