Isinglass: a transparent, almost pure gelatin prepared from the air bladder of the sturgeon and certain other fishes and used as an adhesive and a clarifying agent. Sound appetizing? Enter the cozy dining room (you’ll feel like you’re eating among a large family, the tables are so close together) chow down on the excellent beetroot-cured salmon, twice baked leg o’ lamb and homemade ice cream, and forget the dictionary definition. All ingredients are locally-sourced and quintessentially British—with a modern edge. Certainly worth the trek out to suburban Urmston.