Fonda del Jibarito (La), San Juan

Deep in the depths of Old San Juan is an old, homestyle cafe serving "comida criolla," the classic Puerto Rican food of yore. The decor is homespun but appealing with lots of flowery plants filling the backyard patio, and the cooler inside dining room painted a festive yellow, green and blue. The side dishes (which are huge) are only included when you order a special; otherwise you pay extra for things like tostones, rice and pigeon peas, sweet plantains and yuca. There are yummy stuffed tamales, lots of grilled and fried seafood and several types of "mofongo," a heavy combo of fried and mashed plantains mixed with seafood or meat and lots of garlic. It's an island favorite.

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