Apertivo, San Diego

Purists may sniff that Italy does not have "tapas!" But the rest of us will enjoy this low-on-décor, low-priced food and wine hotspot Apertivo in North Park. Very drinkable imported Italian wines start at USD3 a glass, and specials may drive that price down still more. But the real joy is the fresh, flavorful food – ranging from a single meatball for a buck to a lamb shank braised in red wine for USD7. Paired with a USD4 pasta side dish, it's a meal you could pay more for elsewhere, but enjoy less. Add in warm, efficient service and you'll definitely develop an appetite here. -Kathleen Wilder

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