Café Athena, San Diego

Airy and bright, this strip-mall restaurant Athena Cafe manages to exude charm and a taste of the Greek islands. The restaurant offers a rich array of traditional dishes, plus some new creations. The Seafood Bisque ranks with the best. Salmon Dolmas (grape leaves stuffed with salmon) are a delightful variation on the old rice-and-tomato theme. Greek and Californian wines are available. An artful re-creation of Cycladic architecture greets visitors. On the walls are well-rendered views of Santorini by various artists. Outside, a handful of sidewalk tables encourage people watching.

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