Caffe Espresso, San Francisco

With its marble-topped tables, brass accents and ornate wood flourishes, Caffe Espresso is like a French bistro crossed happily with an Italian trattoria. The floor-to-ceiling windows are actually French doors, opened in warm weather. Open or closed, they afford a great view of the passing cable car parade. There is never a hint to hurry up from the hip staff dressed in traditional European waiter garb. It is a favorite with the crowd from the nearby Art Institute as well as tourists and Financial District types. The Continental fare of sandwiches, quiche, soups, salads and its great rotisserie chicken are fabulous, as are the coffee drinks, teas and especially the hot chocolate. The wine bar has a good selection of both foreign and domestic labels. The nearest cable car stop is at Powell Street & Sutter Street, which is just round the corner.

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