Piccadilly Fish and Chips, San Francisco

If any fish and chips can aspire to being an upscale dining experience, these are the ones that just might qualify. Cod flown in from Ireland is deep-fried to crunchy perfection in an oil that is remarkable for the clean flavor it imparts to the fish. The fries are thick-cut and crunchy on the outside and rather like a baked potato in the inside. For authenticity, there is malt vinegar on hand to sprinkle over the goods before diving in. The place itself is typical fast-food in design, but the counter staff is friendly and efficient and the food is worth going out of your way for, as many of the customers, who range from delivery guys to lawyers, do.

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