Pappy's Smokehouse, St. Louis

Like Memphis and Kansas City, St. Louis has a long and storied barbecue tradition. Pappy’s does the city proud, serving brisket, tender pulled-pork sandwiches and meaty ribs (dry-rubbed with 18 secret ingredients) that are smoked over apple and cherry woods for four to 14 hours to perfection. Pick from three sauces, served on the side: Pappy’s Original, Sweet Baby Jane or Holly’s Hot Sauce. Owner Mike Emerson stakes the restaurant’s reputation on freshness; nothing is reheated. If the long lines of customers have already devoured a full day’s share of ribs by noon, sorry; you’ll just have to order something else from the menu. So get there early to ensure your first choice. And if you’re able to carry out, call ahead with your order: You’ll get to skip the long line at the register.

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