Rick Moonen's RM Seafood, Las Vegas

Rick Moonen makes seafood dining into a guiltless discovery of tastes at his top Las Vegas restaurant. He uses only acceptably sustainable sea life from scrupulously sourced vendors—and he uses a lot of yuzu, too. He includes standbys for non-fish eaters: free range chicken in white wine, grilled ribeye in béarnaise sauce and 9 oz beef filet with créme fraiche whipped potatoes. But the fish is what people come for and fortunately he has a casual and affordable downstairs dining option to put that pleasure within reach of most budgets. While the upstairs caters to privileged expense accounts, downstairs is where the fun is: raw bar shooters, fish and chips platters and flavor-packed chowders and gumbos.

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