For decades, Albuquerque’s downtown was a wasteland. After an aggressive urban renovation plan in 2000, it’s now the heart of the city’s nightlife. On Fridays and Saturdays after dark, the streets are thronged with club-goers, hopping from bar to bar. Some meet at stylish spots like Ibiza Lounge, while others rock to the latest at the Launchpad. By day it’s livelier, too, with new condos alongside great vintage retail holdovers, such as Skip Maisel and The Man’s Hat Shop, and the venerable KiMo Theater, a beautiful example of fantastical cinema architecture, with a Southwestern twist. Just east of the tracks is EDo, or East Downtown, a microclimate of restoration cool—check out the scene at The Grove café by day.