Tempo, Buffalo

This is Italian food the way Grandma never would have made it. Chef Paul Jenkins gets all the classic flavors of Italy into his modernized version of dishes like mussels in finocchio (fennel), herb-and-sea salt carpaccio, grilled steak Fiorentina with gnocchi and garlic braised broccolini, osso buco, halibut with calamari and green olives, grilled bronzino and much, much more. His deft hand renders even the heaviest entrée—say, a mushroom risotto —airy and light, and if you do have room for a "secondi" pasta dish, go for the classic pasta Bolognese, full of al dente rigatoni, tender beef, pork and pancetta ragu, and covered with sharp parmesan cheese.

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