Locanda Verde, New York

Housed in Tribeca’s Greenwich Hotel, which is partly owned by actor/god Robert DeNiro, this wood-bedecked Italian restaurant is more than meets the eye. That’s because super chef Andrew Carmellini is working the stoves in the kitchen. The chef, who made a name for himself at acclaimed A Voce, serves up authentically prepared bold-tasting staples from the Italian peninsula: crispy grilled octopus nicely matched with saffron-laced potatoes, orecchiette, or “little ears,” with duck sausage and broccoli rabe, and perfectly seared scallops paired with faro and almonds. The all-Italian 100-bottle list is a good one and nearly all are priced at under $150. And don’t be surprised if Mr. DeNiro asks you to pass the salt.

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