Up-and-coming chef Matt Lightner's menu at this stylish bistro typifies Portland's recent culinary trend toward heartier flavors and dishes, while still adhering to the Willamette Valley natural foods ethos. Typical preparations include barbecued lamb with morels, ferns, nettles and watercress and New York steak with charcoal-roasted scallions and oysters. This culinary inventiveness takes place in a glittery split-level streetscape with large plate glass view windows for seeing and being seen. The adjacent cafe offers lighter, cheaper fare that's equally inventive.
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